Cattleyas are what most people think of when they
hear the word orchid. Producing large and fragrant
flowers with vibrant colors that are commonly used
in corsages, Cattleyas are a popular choice for
beginners and experts alike. These plants are very
sturdy and can take a lot of abuse from those who
tend to forget to water. They are also tolerant of
several temperature ranges. Miniature Cattleyas are
also available, which are great for those with
limited space.
Light and Shade
Cattleyas need abundant though not intense light in
order to grow and flower well. About 2,000 - 3,000
foot-candles is satisfactory, and as with many
orchids, the early morning sun is very important. An
east window, or a south window with light shading
such as a sheer curtain from the middle of February
to the end of October is ideal.
High-pressure sodium or metal halide light fixtures
are some of the best artificial light you can
provide for Cattleyas. Be sure to check out our P.L.
Lights systems page for more information.
Temperature
Cattleyas thrive with a day temperature range
between 70 and 80 degrees F. At night there should
be at least a 10-degree drop, around 60-64 degrees
F. This lower night temperature will help initiate
flower buds and will promote stronger growth.
Keeping the plants near a window is important if you
do not provide artificial light. Cattleyas can be
grown outside from June to late fall in areas with
filtered light. Direct sun will burn the leaves. If
you live in an area where snow falls (like here in
Minnesota), you can leave Cattleyas outside until
the first frost.
Humidity
Cattleyas like a humidity of between 45% and 60%.
This may be attained by the use of a humidifier, or
by filling a saucer with crushed rock and placing it
under the plants. Then, when you water, the run off
will fill the saucer, releasing humidity into the
air via the crushed rock. However, make sure that
the pot is elevated above the water level in the
saucer.
Watering
Always use a clean form of water such as distilled,
rainwater or reverse osmosis water for your plants.
Cattleyas should be watered when the potting medium
feels dry almost to the bottom of the pot. This
generally occurs every week or so from the previous
watering. If in doubt, don't water. Wait another day
or two. Remember that small plants in clay pots can
dry out within a couple of days. Plants should never
stand in water.
Flowering
Cattleyas generally bloom large and fragrant
flowers. The average flowering period for a Cattleya
is 3 to 6 weeks. Make sure to water more often when
Cattleyas are about to bloom, and throughout the
blooming period. The flowers will drop when the
blooming period is over.
Feeding
In the summer, Cattleyas potted in fir bark should
be fed every second watering with a half strength
solution of Grow More 20-10-20 fertilizer. In the
winter feeding once every three or four weeks is
sufficient.
We highly recommend Green Jungle Orchid Food,
especially formulated to work with rain, distilled,
reverse osmosis water or water low in alkalinity.
Fertilize with Green Jungle every time you water.
Potting
Medium grade fir bark is one of the best potting
mediums that can be used for Cattleyas. In general,
repotting should be done every 2 years in the
spring. Repotting becomes necessary when the plant
has outgrown its pot and the new growth reaches out
over the edge, or when the potting medium has broken
down. When repotting, chose a pot that is large
enough to accommodate 2 or 3 years growth (1 or 2
new pseudobulbs per year).
Grab the plant near the base of the pot and start by
gently, but firmly, pulling the plant out of its old
pot. When growing in clay pots, it is sometimes
easiest to simply take a hammer and break the clay
pot, clearing away the clay shards. Do not worry
about breaking or cracking roots, because you will
break several in the process. This does not harm the
plant. Pry out from between the roots as much of the
potting material as you can. Trim off any dead roots
and/or dead pseudobulbs and position the plant with
its oldest pseudobulbs to the edge of the new pot.
Then, spreading the plant roots out, fill in the
space with the potting medium. Press down firmly
with each handful so that the plant does not wobble
around. Build up the compost until the plant rests
with its rhizome on the surface, about a half-inch
below the rim of the pot. Newly potted plants do
have a tendency to wobble, in this case you can use
a ring support or rhizome clip to secure the plant.
To divide a plant simply pull it out of the pot and
cut through the rhizome between the pseudobulbs
leaving three to four bulbs per division. If
possible try to untangle some of the roots for each
division. You may have to cut some of the roots in
order to divide the plant, but this is inevitable.
Keep dry for the first week after repotting.
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