Catasetinae Orchid Care
The Catasetinae subtribe includes the popular genera Cycnoches, Catasetum, Mormodes, and Clowesia. With a bit of understanding on their seasonal growth patterns, these orchids are easy growers in any collection. Catasetinae go through periods of growth in the spring and summer, followed by a dormancy rest period in fall and winter. During active growth, these orchids thrive with constant moisture around the roots and regular fertilizer application. During dormancy, the leaves fall away to present a cluster of bare pseudobulbs. At this time, little or no water is needed – only small amounts of water should be added once the pseudobulbs have shriveled and developed deep creases.
Light and Shade
Catasetinae need abundant though not intense light in order to grow and flower well. Growing in an east window is ideal, as the early morning sun is very important. However, a south window will also be suitable, so long as the plant is provided with light shading from the middle of February to the end of October using a sheer curtain. Catasetinae can be grown outside from June to late fall in areas with filtered light, such as through a pine tree or shrub in early morning or afternoon. Be careful not to exposure these orchids to prolonged direct sunlight, as the leaves will sunburn. If using artificial light to grow indoors, LEDs are the best option for Catasetinae. The artificial light market has expanded greatly in recent years, so a quick Google search will result in a variety of lighting options and price ranges.
Temperature and Humidity
During the growing season, Catasetinae thrive with a day temperature range between 70°F and 80°F (20°C to 27°C). At night there should be at least a 10°F (6°C) drop, to around 60°F to 64°F (15°C to 18°C). This lower night temperature will help initiate spiking and promote stronger growth. During the dormancy season, these orchids should be grown slightly cooler with a day temperature range between 65°F and 75°F (18°C to 24°C) and night temperatures of 55°F to 64°F (13°C to 18°C). Catasetinae benefit from humidity levels between 45% and 60%. This can be achieved at home with the use of a humidifier or a humidity tray. Just make sure that the plant is not standing in water or the roots will rot.
Watering
Catasetinae watering will differ based on season. During the spring season, new growths emerge followed by new roots. Once the new roots are 3 to 5 inches long, you should resume watering. From this point, these orchids rapidly develop their new pseudobulbs over the next 4 months. Water 2 to 3 times per week to ensure constant moisture and regular fertilization. Flowering often occurs in late fall to early winter. After this point, these orchids begin to enter dormancy. The leaves will yellow and fall off, at which point you should stop fertilizing and gradually reduce watering. Stop watering altogether once the bulbs are fully bare. If your plants are not stimulated into the dormancy on their own and remain green-leaved, a good rule of thumb is to stop watering by January 1st. At this time, little or no water is needed – only small amounts of water should be added once the pseudobulbs have shriveled and developed deep creases.
Feeding
We highly recommend Green Jungle Orchid Food, specially formulated to provide orchids with the nutrients they would naturally encounter in their wild habitats. This is the fertilizer that we developed to use on our own plants in production, with excellent results for decades! This formula works best with water low in alkalinity (such as rainwater, distilled water, or reverse osmosis water). However, you may use tap water, keeping in mind that mineral buildup will require repotting more frequently, on the order of every 1 to 2 years. If potting in bark mix, fertilize every time you water during the growing season, flushing with non-softened water once a month. This rinses the media of salt and mineral buildup. If potting in sphagnum moss, fertilize every 3rd watering during the growing season.
Potting
We recommend potting Catasetinae using New Zealand Sphagnum Moss or the Medium grade of our Traditional Orchid Bark Mix. In general, repotting should be done every 2 years in the spring, before new roots have emerged. Repotting becomes necessary when the plant has outgrown its pot and the new growth reaches out over the edge, or when the potting medium has broken down. When repotting, choose a pot that is large enough to accommodate 2 or 3 years growth (1 or 2 new pseudobulbs per year). Grab the plant near the base of the pot and start by gently, but firmly, pulling the plant out of its old pot. When growing in clay pots, it is sometimes easiest to simply take a hammer and break the clay pot. Do not worry about breaking or cracking roots, this will not harm the plant long term. If the mix is old, crumbly and sour, carefully remove the media and rinse the root system. Trim off any dead roots and dead pseudobulbs. Position the plant with its oldest pseudobulbs to the edge of the new pot. Then, spreading the plant roots out, fill in the space with the potting medium. Press down firmly with each handful so that the plant does not wobble around. Build up the compost until the plant rests with its rhizome on the surface, about a half-inch below the rim of the pot. If your newly potted plant is wobbly, you can use a ring support or rhizome clip to secure the plant.
Pest Control
The main Catasetinae pests are spider mites. The best way to monitor your plants for mites is to inspect the undersides of the leaves for chlorotic pitting. The best treatment for mites is to wipe every 2 to 3 days with neem oil for 2 weeks.